Perga
Perga (Perge in Greek and Turkish) is one of the most massive ancient cities I have ever come across. In fact, only Ephesus springs to mind when I try and think of a city covering a larger land mass.
The origins of Perga start with the acroplolis, 180 feet (60m) high and covering an area 7,500 ft² (2,500 m²). It is sandwiched between two hills, Koca Belen and Iyilik Belen, and it was a perfectly adequate defensive location. The River Aksu was the primary reason for its rise, and later the city became a port with the sea some seven miles distant.
The name Perga is actually Turkish, and not Greek or any of the local languages, like Luwian in Side, and its origins are somewhat shrouded in mystery.
Historical accounts suggest the city was first inhabited by colonists from Argos, which is located in the Peloponnese in Greece. Argos itself has one of the oldest known histories of ancient times, dating back at least 6,000 years ago (see ‘Argos’ in the ‘Greece’ section), and was probably the first real city to emerge in Greece, the predecessors of the Mycenaean culture and probably related to the Minoans. Perga, however, was probably settled by colonisers from Argos after the Trojan wars (1250 BC +/-), because clearly the Mycenaeans settled this far on the mainland after the defeat of Troy itself. Greek settlement in Asia Minor, however, was relatively frequent throughout history.
Other accounts suggest the Hittites were the first to establish a base here, as far back as 1700 BC, and it was then known as ‘Parha’. It’s very likely, however, that an earlier settlement existed and no records remain to be able to obtain any information. There was human activity on the acropolis thousands of years earlier, and excavations suggest that the hill was used at least 5,000 years ago during the Neolithic, but to what extent is unknown. I think it’s very likely a large settlement was present for some considerable time before the arrival of the Hittites.
A tablet that was discovered in 1986 certainly casts doubt on the idea that the Greeks were the first colonisers at Perga. The text talks of an agreement between the Hittite King Tuthalia, and Tarhuntassa, the Prince of the land of Karunta. The tablet has been dated to the 13th Century BC, thus suggesting the Greek colonisation of Perga was much later than the Hittites, and could also have been much later than the Trojan wars.
To confuse matters, the goddess of Perga – Artemis Pergaia (Artemis of Perga) – may not be of Greek or Hittite origin. As we saw with the site at Letoon, Artemis was very much related to the Lycian region. She was the daughter of Leto, one of the Greek gods, and brother of the better-known Apollon (Apollo). Since the Greeks went to Asia Minor many years in the past, and the three aforementioned gods are a part of the Greek titans, it looks more and more likely that many of the Greek gods were imported from outside its borders. Leto, so far, is the most likely candidate for originating outside of Greece and probably emerged with the Lycian culture. The Lycian area neighboured that of Pamphylia, which covers the Antalya region and Perga itself, so it’s not too hard to imagine that Artemis originated in Lycia, along with her mother and brother. One question that must be asked though – did the cult of Leto first originate in Greece and was then exported to Lycia in a much earlier time period? That scenario does seem unlikely, and if the first scenario is correct then history may need to be looked at a little differently, for at Ephesus there was built one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World – the massive Temple of Artemis. That staggering building, which was also in Asia Minor, does suggest that Artemis, Apollon and Leto all originated in Lycia, and that the Greeks adopted the goddess Leto into their list of lesser titans. Leto’s parents, however, both Coeus and Phoebe, were two of the twelve great titans of Greek mythology, and therein lies the confusion. These godly origins also have fundamental implications within history because Greece is considered the cradle of civilisation – what if it all actually started in Asia Minor?
Astonishingly, although it’s clear an Artemis temple was located at Perga, it has not been found. There are the remains of a temple atop the acropolis, but its relative location means it is unlikely to be the Artemis temple.
Very little historical data is available until the 7th Century BC when there was a Greek colonisation from Rhodes. Akan Atila writes that “the newcomers” blended in with the local population and “caused the development of a new culture” because the locals “were tied to their traditions”. This, again, suggests that Artemis was a local deity, but what is not certain is whether there were any Greeks still in Perga from the original migration after the Trojan wars, some 600 years earlier.
In 546 BC the city fell to the Persians, and then in 333 BC Alexander the Great arrived and the city surrendered without so much as a sword being raised. The Persian-controlled other cities, like Pisidia and Aspendos, managed to defend against Alexander’s army, but only for a brief time. With Alexander’s death in 323 BC, Perga endured in the Hellenistic period, first under Antigonos and then the Seleucids between 223 – 188 BC. It is during this time that the city expanded. As with most cities in the region, in 188 BC, Perga came under the rule of the city of Pergamum and thus the Romans later in 133 BC.
Perga expanded again in the 1st Century AD, and during the beginning of the next century a wealthy woman called Plancia Magna provided immense funds for further expansion. It is clear that under Roman rule the city enjoyed its most prosperous period and expanded several-fold.
Christianity then swept through the ancient world and by the end of the 3rd Century Perga was a mix of pagans and Christians, but the fall of the Roman Empire saw the beginnings of Perga’s demise, despite the new Byzantine Empire’s continuous power in the region, with its capital at Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul). In the 7th Century Perga was raided, although by who is not clear. What is clear is that the city seems to have been abandoned by the majority of the population, perhaps because the destruction was so severe. Some people did remain in Perga though, in a “small village settlement”, right up until the 13th Century when Perga was finally abandoned.
One famous character was born and lived in Perga during the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC – the mathematician Apollonius of Perga (262 – 190 BC) – the first person in the world to study ellipses. The science of the elliptical orbits of the planets and the moon has been attributed to Apollonius, and Isaac Newton studied his work at great length.
My visit to Perga was on the morning of the 18th March, 2015. The day was pleasant and the site was practically empty, apart from a couple of tour groups, a few individual visitors and some workmen and archaeologists in various parts of the site. In the main baths were a group of students drawing. The theatre was closed to visitors and seems to have been that way for quite some time – it is fenced off completely and it is not even possible to view the interior of the theatre even by stopping on the road next to it. Only the façade can be seen. Probably being repaired, the theatre seems like it might be closed to visitors for some time, but the rest of the site is so big it meant, for me, that this was only a minor let down. I also never climbed onto the acropolis because it seemed at the time that access was unavailable. From behind the fountain, however, at the end of the long main street, it does appear that a pathway takes visitors to the top of the acropolis, but I was unaware of that at the time and only realised this from a map in I Akan Atila’s book, which is listed in the references below. Perga is a very big site and I recommend a good half day for the casual tourist, and anything from a full day to a week for those more inclined to scrutinise the site in a more academic manner.
References:
Atila, I Akan. Perge, Aspendos, Side, new edition, 2014. Guney Kartpostal, Antalya
http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/go/med/Perge/
http://www.historvius.com/perge-1052/
http://www.exploreturkey.com/exptur.phtml?id=68
http://www.ancient.eu/Hittite/
http://www.theoi.com/Cult/ArtemisCult4.html
http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/coin-of-perga-with-artemis-pergaia-in-temple-3839
http://www-groups.dcs.st-and.ac.uk/~history/Biographies/Apollonius.html
http://ancient-greece.org/archaeology/mycenae.html
https://www.academia.edu/1822403/Graeco-Anatolian_Contacts_in_the_Mycenaean_Period
- Information board – not wise to take this information as red
- Information board
- Information board
- Information board
- Information board
- Information board
- Tower. This Roman tower was part of the 3rd Century expansion of the city and is located at the southern entrance
- Walls and courtyard leading to the Roman gateway.
- Once inside the outer walls this was the main entrance into the city, from the south
- Profile showing stonework of the Roman Gate
- The basilica, to the east of the Roman gate
- Aqueduct
- Foundations of the back of the agora – the shops and portico – with the Hellenisitc towers in the background
- Columns of the agora
- The centre of the agora. The agora was built in the 2nd Century
- Inner columns on the south-eastern corner of the agora
- The southern stoa, left
- The eastern stoa, or portico
- Shop entrances on the eastern stoa
- Shop entrance on the eastern stoa
- Inside the shops!
- Inside the shops!
- Columns of the eastern stoa
- Another shop
- Columns on the north-eastern corner of the stoa with Corinthian Order column capitals
- Outer stoa, directly north of the agora (left)
- View of the agora from inside a shop
- A walk along the outer stoa
- The back of the shops
- The back of the shops and the stoa to the right
- Building behind the agora to the north
- Columns of the outer stoa with the double agora columns in the background
- A view north along the main street heading north
- Stoa and main street, built in Roman times
- The main street stoa
- Shops along the stoa of the main street
- Shops along the stoa
- Further along the main street, the road heads into the distance
- One half of the main street with the central canal, left
- Main street
- Eastern stoa of the main street
- Eastern side of main street with canal, left, and stoa, right
- Eastern side of main street, looking to the western side
- The eastern stoa of main street
- Western stoa of the main street
- The view back down the road
- Near the top of the road, a left turn in the background
- Near the top of the road the acropolis dominates the surroundings
- Looking south back down the road, marble columns on the eastern side
- This structure was probably a monument. You can see the entrance where the water channelled through the canal system. Underneath the canal was the sewage system
- Right at the the northen end of the road, Corinthian columns line the stoa
- Information board
- Water pipes that fed the nymphaeum, main channel and canal
- Main water channel for Hadrian’s nymphaeum
- View of the city from below the acropolis at Hadrian’s nymphaeum
- Main steps to the acropolis
- Steps on the eastern side
- Steps on the eastern side of the nymphaeum. The nymphaeum was built during Hadian’s reign – 117-138 AD
- Statue of Cestrus in situ. Through the gap below the statue the water flowed into the nymphaeum and on into the canal
- The water filled this small pool and then overflowed down the steps, then started its journey down the main street of the city. The effects must have been delightful
- Hadrian’s nymphaeum from the south with the acropolis behind. The twon niches either side of the staue of Cestrus contained further statues that are now in the Antalya museum
- Steps to the left of the nymphaeum, leading to the acropolis
- The main canal
- From the front of the nymphaeum, a view of the western stoa
- Shop on the western stoa
- The western road with columns on the southern stoa and the palaestra in the background
- The northen stoa of the western street
- Corinthian columns on the south stoa
- Corinthian columns on the south stoa
- The western road near the arch. In the centre of the picture the path runs through the doorway to the western baths
- Arched walkway on the western road
- The palaestra
- The western road with stoa (left) and palaestra (right). A palaestra was the greek wrestling school
- Arched doorway that connected the main street to the south stoa, and housing complex
- Niche of the palaestra. Note the later Roman bricks that blocked up the doorway, more than liekly there was a statue in front
- Facade of the palaestra
- The palaestra
- Looking east along the western road, back towards the arch
- Looking west with the western baths behind the stoa
- Western baths and the south stoa
- Western baths, a view back along the south-east
- Fountain of the western baths
- The acropolis
- The western baths were built in the 3rd Century and have not been excavated yet
- The western baths, the view from the west gate
- The west baths from the west gate, looking south-east
- A tortoise
- The western baths contained five rooms
- The northwesternmost bath house
- The northwesternmost bath house
- From the baths, the view of the fountain
- From the baths, the view of the fountain
- From outside the baths, the acropolis and west street
- Internal bath doorway
- Internal bath doorways
- Looking north-west from the south
- One of the baths. Note the discolouration from the water
- Niches on the inner walls
- Niches on the inner walls
- View of the palaestra and acropolis from the east side of the baths
- shops on the south stoa of the western street
- From the south stoa, the arch on the western street, looking east
- The (other) arch leading onto the western street from the stoa
- I am oblivious to the function of this niche
- View through the stoa doorway towards the baths
- Once again the view west on the western road, with palaestra on the right
- Columns of the south stoa on the western road
- Greek carvings on the steps
- Greek carvings on the steps
- Eastern end of the west road
- Looking back down the main north-south street
- Noticeboard with shops behind
- The western stoa of the main street with shops behind
- Shops on the western stoa of the main street
- The main street, looking south-east
- Across the street to the other side!
- The view north along the western stoa
- The northern street with acropolis
- The northern street with acropolis
- Again across the road, columns on the east stoa
- The west stoa of north street, looking north to the acropolis
- Heading towards the southern end, the Hellenistic towers come into view
- The canal and the Hellenistic towers
- Directly behind the street heading north
- Buildings at the southern end of the main street on the western stoa
- Inside a building on the western stoa
- Note how the earth has been cut away to accommodate this building
- Across the the south baths
- The main and south bath complex from the southern end of the main street
- The Hellenistic towers (with scaffold) from the southern end of the main street, view to the south-east
- From the south end of the street, inside buildings on the western stoa, the view towards the acropolis
- From the south end of the street, inside buildings on the western stoa, the view towards the agora
- Tadpoles. I just realsied what a strange name that is – tadpole. Mind you, the other terms of pollywog and porwigle are even more amusing
- The amin street, looking north from the southern end
- The agora from the bottom of the main street. Note the double stoa at the northern end – one inside the agora and one behind the agora shops
- Great view to the north-east of the main street, from the southern end
- The monster-sized south bath complex
- South baths with columned stoa surrounding a palaestra. Behind the columns is the frigidarium
- North gallery of Claudius Peison
- North gallery of Claudius Peison
- Small bath next to the north gallery
- Small bath next to the north gallery
- Hypercaust system of the tepidarium
- Hypercaust system of the tepidarium
- The tepidarium
- The tepidarium
- The frigidarium
- The southern end of frigidarium
- Water system
- Water system
- Caldarium
- Caldarium
- Southern end of the caldarium
- Outside of the baths looking north – the caldarium (centre) and the tepidarium (right)
- The south end of the tepidarium
- Mosaic floor
- Swimming pool south of the palaestra
- Marble columns of the palaestra
- Southern end of the palaestra with frigidarium (left)
- Outside the baths and against the Hellenistic walls, the nymphaeum of Artemis Pergaia
- Nymphaeum of Artemis Pergaia
- The stadium, looking south
- Seating of the stadium on the west side
- Northern end of the stadium from the top of the western seating. The acropolis is in the background
- A view east across the stadium from the west
- Looking south-east
- The camouflaged theatre in the centre of the picture
- The trees make a great backdrop to the stadium
- east side of the stadium
- From the northen end of the stadium, the view to the south
- The northern end of the stadium